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The Landscape of Memory: Why Historical Sites Still Matter – by Danny Heitman

Posted in: Guest Essay

CRC Editor鈥檚 Note:聽聽On May 28th, as I was preparing this insightful and nostalgic essay by Danny Heitman for posting here, I took an (ostensible) 鈥渂reak鈥 and clicked on聽 where I found Danny鈥檚 powerful piece on the catastrophic BP oil spill,听?

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A couple of years ago, while writing a book about a pivotal season in the life of John James Audubon, I spent a great deal of time at Oakley House, the Louisiana plantation where the world鈥檚 most famous bird artist lived and worked in the summer of 1821.

My research involved numerous challenges, but competing with other visitors at Oakley House was seldom a problem. Open to the public since 1954, and now known as the聽 Oakley logged just 17,810 patrons in its most recent annual head count, about half of what the site drew in 1996.

Nestled within the wooded beauty of Louisiana鈥檚 West Feliciana Parish, and located less than an hour鈥檚 drive from聽,听聽Oakley is far from alone when it comes to declining attendance. Across the country, visitation at historic sites and house museums has trended downward for 30 years, according to findings presented in the November 2008 issue of聽.

Some institutions have resisted the decline, with varying degrees of success, by offering new programs and promotions, but the general pattern of public ambivalence about America鈥檚 historic sites isn鈥檛 encouraging.

Culprits for the drop in patronage abound. In a 2005聽Wall Street Journal commentary, museum administrator Bruce Courson singled out cheap airfares, which encourage families to ditch the household car and jet to destinations that by-pass rural museums.

Other observers suggest that in an age of TV, cyberspace and video games, the quieter appeal of historic sites simply isn鈥檛 appealing enough for the latest generation of travelers.

Of course, technology can also help raise the profile of historic attractions, drawing visitors from around the globe through virtual tours on institutional web sites. I was delighted when my book inspired a聽public television documentary that exposed thousands of viewers to Oakley who might not otherwise have darkened its doors.

Even so, there鈥檚 no real substitute for standing on the same ground where history was made, as I learned many times during my research at Oakley.

The oppressive heat and humidity of Louisiana summers, a reality not easily felt without sensing them firsthand, gave me a unique insight into the physical hardships Audubon faced as he combed the woods near Oakley.

Oakley鈥檚 relatively tight quarters also partly explained why tensions ran so high in the household during Audubon鈥檚 stay there. I doubt that merely looking at pictures and videos of Oakley would have provided the same revelation.

The lack of natural light in Audubon鈥檚 Oakley lodgings led me to conclude that the bird artist must have created some of his most memorable work by bringing his paper and paints outside 鈥 into the very environment where he had found the subjects of his art. For me, it was yet another reminder that place can clarify the past in ways small and large.

Other historians have reported similar eureka moments. Biographer Robert Caro pored over hundreds of documents and conducted scores of interviews over the years to plumb the character of聽, but Caro said he didn鈥檛 truly understand Johnson鈥檚 ambition until he saw the U.S. Capitol gleaming at dawn 鈥 just as Johnson would have as a young legislative aide.

To get聽 true texture, author David McCullough lived for a time in Independence, Missouri, the former president鈥檚 hometown.

Such connections shouldn鈥檛 be the exclusive preserve of professional historians. In opening historical sites to the public, their custodians remind us that history is a broad bequest, not the narrow domain of the specialist.

If the public often seems disinterested, perhaps it鈥檚 because of what I call 鈥淎be Lincoln Slept Here鈥 Syndrome, the tendency to frame historic sites as static commemorations of a single event or period.

But when land and history meet, they typically create not one story, but many.

鈥淲alden Pond,鈥澛 masterful history of a magical Massachusetts landmark, is necessarily about Henry David Thoreau, its most famous resident, but Maynard鈥檚 book is also about a great many other things, including what came before and after Thoreau at Walden.

In a similar way, the story of Oakley is much larger than Audubon, yielding important lessons about such things as prehistoric geography, the legacy of slavery, and the implications of modern development.

Embraced this way, land becomes a literature of its own, a text that tells us much about who we were, who we are, who we might become.

At Oakley, Audubon refined what was then a revolutionary technique of depicting birds in their natural surroundings, and his message, quite clearly, is that place defines us.

That reality often abides most vividly in the old homes and haunts of those who have gone before us — in historic sites scattered across the country.

With another vacation season set to begin soon, Americans would do well to give them another look.

—听Danny Heitman is the award-winning columnist for聽The Baton Rouge Advocate and a member of聽The Advocate鈥檚 editorial board. His essays have also appeared in聽The Christian Science Monitor,听Smithsonian,听The New York Times,听The Wall Street Journal and other national publications.聽His critically-acclaimed book,听A Summer of Birds: John James Audubon at Oakley House appeared in 2008 from Louisiana State University Press.